The market for crotchless leather trousers
priced in the thousands cannot be large,
nor, one hopes, will cheap knock-offs
of them soon be trending in the high street.
But Versace has chosen them for its fall
menswear ad campaign, and there
in striking sculpted beauty stand models
Daan and Filip, wide grommeted belts
cinched tight around their hips, from
which hang the unlikely garments, useless
but exquisitely tailored from the finest
pebble-grained hide of some sacrificial
beast, the open center displaying paisley-
patterned briefs, which, unlike the trousers,
might actually sell in the shops, Daan’s
black ones well-filled, Filip’s white ones
revealing the outline of his penis. Above
the chaplike trousers, Filip, shirtless, wears
a studded leather moto jacket hanging
open to show his musculature and one
partly shadowed nipple. Standing tall,
he wraps his right arm around Daan’s
neck and shoulder in a pose that might
be that of brothers or best friends, except
that Filip’s hand pulls up Daan’s printed
black sleeveless T-shirt as if beginning
to undress him, in the process showing
off the smooth, taut abs of Daan, who’s
slouching a touch to the right. Daan’s
bare left arm hangs straight down
the center of the photo, drawing the
viewer’s eye toward the chaps and
Filip’s package, but his right, bent
at the elbow, crosses his chest underneath
his T-shirt, hand resting lightly on his
own left shoulder. Filip tilts his head
forward, platinum hair in a carefully
constructed mess, sporting his trademark
slightly menacing look, with smouldering
eyes and sneering mouth suggesting
his dominance in whatever kind of
relationship is being portrayed, while
Daan looks up into the camera, head
angled a little back and left, so that
the razor-cut edges of his hair, just
a shade or two darker than his mate’s,
dangle freely, but not looking at Filip,
who also faces forward. Daan’s face looks
brooding,vulnerable, and slightly troubled,
as if he’s not sure he’s really into what he’s
doing. The photograph itself, shot in
classic black and white against a neutral
ground, takes a strong vertical perspective,
emphasizing the models’ slender height,
elongating their straight-hanging left arms,
tracing the center line of their torsos, with
only the belts and Daan’s just-noticeable
twist to the right lining up horizontally.
Though the models’ pose does not look
forced, the photographers obviously
have a penchant for formal composition,
evident in the triangulation of lines, with
the enfolding right arms of both young men
and the shape of Daan’s pulled-up shirt
replicating with softer edges the sharp
angles of the leather jacket’s lapels
and the cotton-cloaked wedges between
the models’ legs. Only the name of the
fashion house, superimposed in yellow
capitals at bottom right, identifies the
vendor of whatever’s up for sale.
Note: The poem references a photograph by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, featuring models Daan van der Deen and Filip Hrivnak, used in the advertising campaign for Versace’s AW 2014 menswear line. The ad appeared in various publications, including the September 2014 issue of Out.
Copyright 2014
T. Allen Culpepper